A business suit is not everyday clothing, you should not buy the first model you find. Below you will find tips that will help you to solve the dilemma and buy a really good quality item.
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What style to choose
In different parts of the world the style of tailoring men’s suits is slightly different. Kirill Yurovskiy singles out several particularly pronounced trends:
- English style. The elegance itself. English suits are characterized by a layered, but at the same time strict structure, an excellent cut, they represent the aristocracy. The silhouettes clearly emphasize the lines of the shoulders and back, as if intentionally showing a slim figure.
- The Northern Italian style. These suits are very similar to the English ones, but they emphasize the waist line more clearly. The pants are usually straight and not very wide, and the jackets are with strictly outlined shoulders and a general silhouette.
- The Southern Italian style. Everything is free, relaxed, even vaillant. No clear outlines, no layering, everything is simple and, most importantly, comfortable. This is a great option if you need to choose a men’s suit for every day. It is great for the summer and for people who watch their figure.
- French style. It embodies the classics, restraint, and ideal cut. But in these suits, as a rule, there is no originality.
- German style. Here you will find layered, slightly shapeless, quite free and at the same time very solid suits.
- American style. This again is an option for those who need to choose a men’s suit for every day. American models are not strict, almost casual, without an accentuated shoulder line and silhouette as a whole. Suitable for those who like to roll up the sleeve a little.
Learn how to measure
Most people do not use the services of personal tailors. But how do you choose the size of a man’s suit without knowing your own measurements? If you don’t have a personal tailor, you’ll have to learn how to measure yourself.
Here is a step-by-step instruction for that. Knowing all your measurements, you will choose the right size for your suit and it will sit on you like a fit.
What will you need for this? A tailor’s tape measure and someone to help out a little. It’s best to wear a shirt (t-shirt) and pants (jeans are not appropriate) to get the measurements right.
- First, the neck circumference is measured at the collar line of the shirt.
- The next measurement is the width of the shoulders (from the edge of the left shoulder to the edge of the right shoulder).
- To measure the chest circumference, put a tape measure under the arms, on the back – just above the shoulder blades, in the front – along the nipple line.
- Then you measure the waist circumference (at the level of the abdomen, under the rib cage), then the circumference of the hips (you apply the centimeter to their most protruding points and along the buttocks).
- Next – the sleeve, from the shoulder seam to the wrist (you can choose any length you want).
- Another indicator – the length of the pant leg on the inside seam (starting from the crotch and down). That’s about it. The last thing left to measure is your height.
How to choose a suit by size
As for the marking, in a good suit it should display three indicators: size, fullness and height. For example, you see a suit with these numbers: 48/7L. That means it is made for a tall man, quite slender (size 48) and not very full (fullness – 7).
The size number is the volume of the chest divided by two. In this example, the size is 48, so it is designed for a chest volume of 96 cm. In addition, people can be very different complexities, so you should also consider the indicator of fullness.
Completeness is denoted by numbers from 0 to 8. Herewith the figure zero is for the most rounded figures (when the maximum volume is in the stomach area), 8 is for broad-shouldered athletes, and 6 is for people with rectangular figures without a prominent waist or narrow hips.
In addition to fullness, height is also important. This will determine whether the length of the suit will fit you (the jacket by the sleeves and back, and the pants by the outside and inside seams).
Here are the marks used to indicate height:
- For heights of 190 cm and above – XL (Extra Long);
- For height 180-190 cm – L (Long);
- 175-180 cm – R (Regular);
- For a height of 170-175 cm – C (Court).
Again, people have very different figures. So the fact that the suit of your height (by marking) sits perfectly. It may be that the sleeve or pant leg is short, but according to the measurements everything should fit perfectly. If you know that there might be such a problem, contact stores where the range of services includes individual fitting of the suit.
Of course, you can try on any suit to see what size is right for you. But in general you should be guided by the purpose for which you are going to buy it.
- To wear it in winter, summer or all year round?
- To wear every day or on holidays?
- Evening option or for business meetings?
- Strict or relaxed style?
If we talk about the types of fabrics for different seasons of the year, we distinguish between more and less dense (by weight):
- for sewing summer suits, fabric with a 220-250 g/m² is used;
- for demi-safety suits – 270-280 g/m²;
- And for winter – 350-400 g/m².
For evening suits dark monochrome fabrics are used more often, but it may be a white version, if we are talking about a country with a hot climate. To choose a men’s business suit for the office, pay attention to light-colored models (they are designed for daytime), you may have stripes or plaid.
Inexpensive and quite decent-looking will be a suit made of fabric with an addition of synthetics. As for linen, this material is very wrinkled, so it would be suitable for a summer, slightly sloppy style.
A normal percentage of synthetics even in a very good fabric is 5-30%. Modern technology allows even with such a composition to make excellent materials that are breathable and comfortable to wear.
What suit suits your figure
Choosing the right suit for your body type is not an easy task. First of all, you should determine what type your body type is, and secondly, you should take into consideration and use the advice of specialists.
A man of large build, medium height.
It is a big mistake to think that a good suit is the one that tightly fits the figure. No, it should hide the excess and show the best that you have. It is good if the jacket serves as a kind of drapery for the body. And choose models with a sewn-in hem. If it’s just glued, the thing will quickly lose its shape, especially if it hangs on the shoulders in the closet for a while. The ideal silhouette for this type of figure is British, i.e. hourglass shaped.
Man with a large build, but with height above the average.
A suit with a three-piece suit is a suitable option. Remember that the vest should be of normal length (not shortened, slightly covering the pants’ top) and not fitted. Try to open the shirt and tie wider so the belly is not so conspicuous.
An athletic build (shoulders wide, hips narrow).
With such a build there is no need in shoulder pads. The jacket should be chosen as loose at the top, but narrowed at the waist. The shape of pants (to the bottom from the knee) can be chosen differently, depending on what is in fashion now.
Check whether the pants are too narrow, whether it is comfortable to walk in them (especially if you have large hips). Jacket sleeves should be loose, not cramping the movement of the hands and narrowing, starting from the elbow and toward the hand.
A man of large build and low height (below average)
The models made of dense fabrics are best, because they do not stretch and better hold their shape. The shoulders should be wide enough, in the waist area is also important free cut, no tight silhouettes.
Quite full men should wear vests. The V-shaped cut visually elongates the figure and at the same time partially covers the shirt. For those who have a bulging belly, a great solution – suspenders for pants. Tight pants are not acceptable, it is better to let them be loose and slightly elongated (then the legs seem longer).
A thin and tall man.
On this type of figure sits well any jacket, and it does not matter whether it has a lining or not. If the model uses a dense side fabric, the chest looks more pumped up. Double-breasted jackets enlarge the silhouette and make the shoulders look more powerful and wider.
Suits made of textured materials create the illusion of a more imposing build, as well as broad collars in jackets, and ties tied with a large knot. And remember that on a fairly thin and long legs massive shoes look ridiculous.
A thin and short man (height – below average).
For such a physique too long jacket and sleeves are unacceptable. But owing to the narrow lapels it is possible to visually stretch the torso. Choose a darker material. Yes, light suits give volume to forms, but the noble blue or dark gray color makes the silhouette more sophisticated.
The pants are better to choose with a slightly low-rise, not tight-fitting. The recommended width of the pant leg at the very bottom is about 20 cm.